Iceland's folklore is full of elves, trolls and giants, and it is still part of everyday life. Few Icelanders will say they are certain elves exist, but many will not rule it out, and roads have been adjusted to spare elf rocks. Many of the country's best-known sights, from the sea stacks at Vík to Hvítserkur in the north, come with a troll story attached.
Why folklore matters in Iceland
Icelanders have told stories about the land and the beings in it since the settlement. Many tales were written down and collected over the centuries, and most exist in several local versions. On long, dark winter evenings on isolated farms, stories were entertainment. They also carried lessons: respect the land, do not wander into the mountains at night, and treat other people fairly.
The cast is large. There are elves and hidden people, trolls and giants, ghosts, sea monsters and the guardian spirits of the land. The three you will hear about most as a visitor are elves, trolls and the Yule Lads.
Elves and the hidden people (huldufólk)
Icelandic elves are nothing like small, winged fairies. The huldufólk, or hidden people, look and live much like humans, only in a parallel world. They are said to live in rocks, hills and cliffs, keep farms and livestock, and go to church. Most people use the words elves and hidden people for the same beings.
They stay hidden by choice, and they are usually left in peace in return. Stories warn that they can turn nasty if their homes are damaged, so people are careful around rocks known as elf dwellings.
How many Icelanders believe in them? A University of Iceland survey from 2006–2007, led by folklorist Terry Gunnell, found that 8% thought elves definitely exist, 17% thought it likely and 37% thought it possible. Only 13% said it was impossible. In other words, most Icelanders keep an open mind rather than believe outright.
Roads, rocks and the elf church
Stories about construction projects halted by elves are part of Iceland's modern folklore. The best-known case is the new Álftanes road through the Gálgahraun lava field just south of Reykjavík. After years of protests by conservation groups and people who said the road would disturb hidden people, the road was built, but a boulder known as Ófeigskirkja, an elf church, was saved and moved rather than destroyed.
Older stories tell of bulldozers breaking down near elf rocks in Kópavogur in the 1970s. Whether you believe the explanation or not, these stories show how folklore and respect for nature are still tied together in Iceland.
Where to find elves in Iceland
- Hafnarfjörður, a short drive from Reykjavík, is known as a home of hidden people. Hellisgerði lava park, Hamarinn cliffs and the hill Hulduhóll are said to be elf dwellings, and folklore walks are run in the town. Near Reykjavík, our Horses & Elves tour rides past an elf church and an elf hill.
- Álfaborg in Borgarfjörður eystri is a rocky hill said to be home to the queen of the Icelandic elves. An easy path leads to the top, with views over the village.
- Ásbyrgi in North Iceland is a horseshoe-shaped canyon about 3.5 km long. Legend says it is the hoofprint of Sleipnir, the eight-legged horse of Odin. Geologists say it was carved by huge glacial floods.
- Across the countryside you will see small painted wooden houses in gardens and by rocks. These are elf houses, put up by people who like to keep on good terms with their hidden neighbours.
Trolls in Iceland
Trolls are the opposite of elves. They are huge, strong, often stupid and greedy, and they live in mountains and caves. In the stories they come out at night, and if the rising sun catches them outside, they turn to stone. That is why so many odd rock formations in Iceland are said to be trolls who stayed out too long.
Not all trolls are wicked. Some tales describe trolls who help people or keep their word, and in Icelandic the word tröll also covers giants. Rock giants, or bergrisar, are an important part of the landscape lore.
Troll rocks you can visit
- Reynisdrangar, the sea stacks off Reynisfjara black sand beach near Vík. Legend says trolls tried to drag a three-masted ship to shore and were caught by daybreak. Take care on the beach: the waves are dangerous and people have died there.
- Hvítserkur, a 15-metre basalt stack off the Vatnsnes peninsula in North-west Iceland. The story says a troll set out to destroy the monastery at Þingeyrar and was turned to stone by the sun. The two holes at its base make it look like an animal drinking from the sea.
- Dimmuborgir, the lava field at Mývatn, where the twisted rock shapes look like ruined castles. It is said to be the home of Grýla and the Yule Lads.
Trolls, giants and ogres
Visitors often ask whether trolls and ogres are the same thing. In Icelandic folklore the line is blurry. Tröll can mean a troll, a giant or an ogre, and the fiercest figures, such as Grýla, are usually called ogresses or troll women in English. What they share is size, strength, a taste for human flesh and a home in the wild mountains, far from farms and churches.
The Icelandic stories grew out of the wider Norse tradition, which also gave us the giants of the old myths who fought the gods. You can read more about that world in our guide to Vikings in Iceland.
The Yule Lads: Iceland's Christmas trolls
Iceland has 13 Yule Lads (jólasveinar) instead of one Santa Claus. They are the sons of the troll couple Grýla and Leppalúði, who live in a cave in the mountains, often placed at Dimmuborgir. Grýla is said to hunt naughty children and cook them in her pot, and the family keeps the Yule Cat, which eats anyone who has not received new clothes before Christmas.
The Yule Lads were once pranksters and thieves. Today they are friendlier. From 12 December, one arrives each night and children leave a shoe on the windowsill. Good children get a small gift, naughty ones a potato. The first lad leaves on Christmas Day and the last on 6 January.
- 12 Dec: Stekkjastaur, Sheep-Cote Clod
- 13 Dec: Giljagaur, Gully Gawk
- 14 Dec: Stúfur, Stubby
- 15 Dec: Þvörusleikir, Spoon-Licker
- 16 Dec: Pottaskefill, Pot-Scraper
- 17 Dec: Askasleikir, Bowl-Licker
- 18 Dec: Hurðaskellir, Door-Slammer
- 19 Dec: Skyrgámur, Skyr-Gobbler
- 20 Dec: Bjúgnakrækir, Sausage-Swiper
- 21 Dec: Gluggagægir, Window-Peeper
- 22 Dec: Gáttaþefur, Doorway-Sniffer
- 23 Dec: Ketkrókur, Meat-Hook
- 24 Dec: Kertasníkir, Candle-Stealer
The guardian spirits of the land
One of the best-known stories comes from the sagas. A Danish king, Harald Bluetooth, sent a wizard to Iceland in the shape of a whale to spy on the country. Four guardians drove him off: a dragon in the east, a great bird in the north, a bull in the west and a rock giant with an iron staff in the south.
These four are known as the landvættir, the guardian spirits of the land. You will see them on the Icelandic coat of arms and on Icelandic coins. The message is the one found in most Icelandic tales: the land looks after those who respect it.
Seeing the legends on a tour
Folklore is easiest to enjoy with a local guide, who can point out troll rocks and elf hills you would otherwise drive past. South Coast tours stop at Reynisfjara and Vík. North Iceland tours take in Mývatn, Dimmuborgir and Ásbyrgi, and a trip to Borgarfjörður eystri adds Álfaborg. If you prefer to travel at your own pace, our self-drive tours can include all of these places.
- Horses & Elves: ride Icelandic horses near Reykjavík past places linked to the hidden people.
- Diamond Circle Tour with Lake Myvatn & Asbyrgi Canyon from Akureyri: Mývatn and the canyon said to be Sleipnir's hoofprint in one day.
- Puffins & Borgarfjörður Eystri: a day in the village below Álfaborg, home of the elf queen.
- Horse Riding, Puffins & Elves Tour in South Iceland: horses, birds and elf stories on the South Coast.
Questions people ask
Do Icelanders really believe in elves?
Some do, but most keep an open mind. In a 2006–2007 University of Iceland survey, 8% said elves definitely exist and 54% said it was likely or possible. Only 13% said it was impossible.
What are the hidden people in Iceland?
The huldufólk, or hidden people, are elves who look and live like humans in a parallel world. They are said to live in rocks, hills and cliffs and to keep to themselves unless their homes are disturbed.
Where can I see a troll turned to stone in Iceland?
The best-known troll rocks are Reynisdrangar near Vík on the South Coast and Hvítserkur on the Vatnsnes peninsula in the north. The lava formations at Dimmuborgir near Mývatn are also linked to trolls.
How many Yule Lads are there?
There are 13. They arrive one by one from 12 to 24 December and leave one by one from Christmas Day to 6 January.
What happens to trolls in sunlight?
In Icelandic folklore, trolls who are caught outside when the sun rises turn to stone. Many rock formations in Iceland are said to be trolls who stayed out too late.
