Nestled in the heart of Iceland’s Highlands, Kerlingarfjöll is a geothermal paradise that promises an unforgettable hiking experience. Known for its dramatic landscape, boiling mud pots, steaming vents, and rust-colored rhyolite mountains, this area is a treasure trove for those looking to immerse themselves in Iceland’s raw natural beauty.
This guide provides insights into Kerlingarfjöll’s hiking trails, when to visit, what to pack, and tips for making the most of this unique and ethereal destination.
About Kerlingarfjöll
Kerlingarfjöll, meaning “The Old Woman’s Mountain” in Icelandic, is part of a larger volcanic mountain range formed over ten thousand years ago. The region’s geothermal activity, fueled by the volcanic system below, creates a landscape of steaming hot springs, fumaroles, and colorful mineral deposits, particularly striking against the often snowy backdrop.
Situated between the Langjökull and Hofsjökull glaciers, Kerlingarfjöll covers approximately 100 square kilometers. This otherworldly destination has grown increasingly popular among hikers and photographers due to its unique mix of geothermal features and highland beauty.
Getting to Kerlingarfjöll
Located in the Icelandic Highlands, Kerlingarfjöll can be challenging to access, as it is only reachable during the summer months. The F35 (Kjölur) Highland Road, a gravel route crossing Iceland’s interior, is the main road leading to the area. A 4×4 vehicle is required for this journey, as the road can be rough and is often strewn with rocks and small river crossings. The road typically opens in mid-June and remains accessible until September, depending on weather conditions.
Once on F35, look for the marked turnoff to Kerlingarfjöll, which leads to the main base area with parking and a nearby mountain resort.
When to Visit Kerlingarfjöll
Late summer can offer more stable weather, while early June might still have patches of snow that contrast beautifully with the geothermal steam, creating some surreal photo opportunities. However, temperatures in the Highlands can be unpredictable and may drop significantly, even in summer, so always prepare for chilly and windy conditions.
Popular Hiking Trails in Kerlingarfjöll
Kerlingarfjöll offers trails for all levels, from easy walks to challenging climbs. Here are some of the most popular hikes:
1. Hveradalir (Hot Spring Valley)
- Difficulty: Moderate
- Distance: Approx. 5-6 km round trip
- Highlights: Hveradalir is Kerlingarfjöll’s most famous geothermal area, known for its vibrant rhyolite mountains and steaming vents. The trail takes you through a geothermal wonderland, where you can walk among bubbling mud pots and see steam rising from cracks in the earth.
- Details: This trail is well-marked, and although it involves some elevation changes, it’s accessible for most hikers. Wooden boardwalks in some areas make it easier to navigate, though be cautious as the paths can be slippery due to the geothermal moisture.
2. Kerlingarfjöll Peak
- Difficulty: Challenging
- Distance: Approx. 10 km round trip
- Highlights: For those looking to test their limits, hiking to the top of Kerlingarfjöll Peak offers panoramic views of the entire geothermal area and surrounding glaciers.
- Details: This route is more strenuous and involves a steep ascent. At the top, you’ll be rewarded with an awe-inspiring view of both the Langjökull and Hofsjökull glaciers, as well as a birds-eye view of the other-worldly geothermal landscape below.
3. The Ásgarður Loop
- Difficulty: Easy to Moderate
- Distance: Approx. 4 km
- Highlights: This trail starts from the Kerlingarfjöll Mountain Resort and follows a scenic route that provides a nice introduction to the area without venturing too deep into the highlands.
- Details: Ideal for families or those wanting a more relaxed hike, this loop takes you around the Ásgarður area, offering views of rivers, mountains, and valleys.
4. Extended Hiking Routes
- For those with an adventurous spirit and multiple days to explore, Kerlingarfjöll offers extended trails that weave through highland paths and connect with larger routes in Iceland’s interior. It’s recommended to hire a guide or consult a map, as these trails can be more remote and less marked than the popular ones.
Tips for Hiking in Kerlingarfjöll
Dress in Layers: The weather in the Highlands is unpredictable and can change quickly. Wear moisture-wicking layers, a windproof and waterproof outer shell, and a thermal layer for insulation.
Good Hiking Boots: Sturdy, waterproof hiking boots with good grip are essential. The geothermal areas are often wet and can be slippery, so footwear that provides stability is important.
Stay on Marked Trails: In geothermal areas, the ground can be fragile and dangerous, with hidden hot spots that could cause severe burns. Always stick to designated paths and follow any signs.
Bring Water and Snacks: Although Kerlingarfjöll has some facilities, you’ll want to bring plenty of water and energy-boosting snacks, as hiking can be strenuous.
Respect the Environment: Kerlingarfjöll is a unique natural site with fragile ecosystems. Do not pick plants, disturb wildlife, or leave any litter behind. Respect Iceland’s “leave no trace” principle.
Check the Weather: Before setting out, always check the weather forecast for the day, as conditions can change quickly in the Highlands.
Where to Stay in Kerlingarfjöll
There are limited accommodation options in the Kerlingarfjöll area, with the Kerlingarfjöll Mountain Resort being the primary option for overnight stays. The resort offers a mix of cozy cabins, dormitory-style huts, and camping facilities. The resort also features a restaurant and basic amenities, making it a convenient base for hikers.
If you’re planning to camp, be aware that temperatures can drop even in summer, so bring a high-quality, insulated sleeping bag.
Other Activities in Kerlingarfjöll
While hiking is the primary draw to Kerlingarfjöll, there are other activities you can enjoy:
Geothermal Hot Springs: Relax in natural hot springs after a long hike. The Kerlingarfjöll Mountain Resort has a geothermal pool, providing a relaxing end to a day of hiking.
Photography: The surreal landscapes of Kerlingarfjöll are a dream for photographers. The vibrant colors, geothermal steam, and contrasting glaciers make for incredible shots.
Guided Tours: For those who prefer a structured experience, guided tours offer insights into the area’s geology, history, and wildlife, allowing you to learn more about the unique ecosystem and geothermal features.
Packing Essentials for Hiking in Kerlingarfjöll
- Weather-Resistant Clothing: Include thermal base layers, a waterproof jacket, and pants.
- Waterproof Hiking Boots: Essential for traversing the slippery, wet trails in geothermal areas.
- Daypack: With enough space for water, snacks, an extra layer, and camera gear.
- Trekking Poles: Optional but useful for stability, especially on steeper trails.
- Map or GPS Device: Although trails are marked, it’s always good to have a map or GPS as a backup.
- Sunscreen and Sunglasses: The Highlands can be surprisingly sunny, especially during the long summer days.
- Reusable Water Bottle: There are limited refill stations, so carry enough water for your hike.
Why Kerlingarfjöll Should Be on Your Iceland Hiking List
Kerlingarfjöll offers one of the most unique hiking experiences in Iceland, combining breathtaking geothermal features with rugged highland landscapes. Unlike some of the more accessible and crowded tourist spots, Kerlingarfjöll remains a relatively secluded gem, allowing hikers to experience the beauty of Iceland’s wilderness in a peaceful setting.
Whether you’re a seasoned hiker looking for challenging trails or a nature lover wanting to soak in a geothermal wonderland, Kerlingarfjöll is a must-visit destination. The area’s mystical scenery and geological features make it one of Iceland’s most remarkable highland locations. For an unforgettable hiking adventure in Iceland, Kerlingarfjöll provides a journey into nature that will leave you in awe of the earth’s raw power and beauty.
